Nalina Moses

ARCHITECT, WRITER, CURATOR

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Hanifa Abdul Hameed, Kamala Aunty, 2020_SS.jpg

STATEMENT DRESSING

November 21, 2020 by Nalina Moses

It started even before she took the stage in Wilmington to accept the nomination for Vice President. A fellow desi texted, I hope she wears a sari for the inauguration! Female politicians are scrutinized cruelly for their looks and clothing but Vice President-elect Kamala Harris, in addition to representing all of womankind, must also represent Black America and India. And all the aunties are watching.

When I look at Harris I see an accomplished and ambitious professional woman who is impeccably poised and groomed. She’s a beauty who doesn’t seem overly identified with, or worried about, her looks. I was doubtful about her preference for pantsuits over dresses, but bowled over by her campaign uniform. Bounding down the steps of a Biden-Harris jet in white t-shirt, capri pants, suit jacket, and Converse Chuck Taylors, she seemed cool, pragmatic and progressive. (The campaign’s best tweet, from @jezebel: I am worried about Kamala Harris’s arch support) To inspect wildfire damage in October with California Governor Gavin Newsom she switched it up with Timberlands and an army-inspired olive jacket, surrendering none of her glamor or authority.

A sari is a different thing. It’s a flattering garment that complements any figure, and Harris will look ravishing in one. But, like stilettos, wearing one with ease requires years of experience. I’d prefer if she referenced India, and her fellow desis, more indirectly. She can wear something shiny, drapey, or crazy-colored, accessorizing with piles of gold jewelry. Or she can turn to the magnificent example of Michele Obama, who wore a strapless ankle-length embroidered gold sheath by Naeem Khan to welcome the Indian Prime Minister to the White House in 2009.

Harris is now herself a world leader and, in a better world, it wouldn’t matter what she wears. But each time she steps out she looks fantastic, and each time it inspires.

Kamala Aunty by Hanifa Abdul Hameed, 2020. © Hanifa Abdul Hameed, Colors of Honey

November 21, 2020 /Nalina Moses
Kamala Harris, India, sari, Converse, Timberland, Naeem Kahn, Michele Obama
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SEATING ARRANGEMENTS
Amie Siegel’s 40-minute art film Provenance traces the history of the simple, wood-framed, leather-cushioned chairs, tables and stools that furnished the capitol buildings of Chandigarh, India in the 1950’s.  They we…

SEATING ARRANGEMENTS

Amie Siegel’s 40-minute art film Provenance traces the history of the simple, wood-framed, leather-cushioned chairs, tables and stools that furnished the capitol buildings of Chandigarh, India in the 1950’s.  They were designed by the buildings’ architects, Le Corbusier and Charles Jeanneret, with mid-century modern stylings that are, today, incredibly fashionable.  The film shows us these pieces (battered, broken, scratched) in place in the government buildings, in the French workshops where they are taken (not without protest) to be restored, and, finally, in the lofts, townhouses and yachts where they land after they are sold through international auction houses, for tens of thousands of dollars each.

As the film’s title implies, the pieces carry considerable aura.  Each one was cataloged in Chandigarh with a unique number that’s hand-painted in a florid script, in white paint, on its side.  During the refinishing process these numbers are preserved to attest to their authenticity.  But after their frames are stripped and stained and their upholstery remade, how “authentic” are they?  Slipper chairs originally covered in orange and blue leather are remade in crushed white linen for a loft in Antwerp and pony-printed cow hide for a house in the Hamptons.  Wouldn’t it be simpler and cheaper (and more ethical, too) to simply reproduce the pieces?

In the movie we see unused chairs and tables in Chandigarh piled, uncovered, in storage spaces and on the roofs of the buildings.  There are couches whose upholstery has been patched with duct tape, chairs whose legs have split and been nailed hastily back together, and tables whose tops are burned from coffee cups.  It’s sad that they’re being spirited away for western collectors. And sadder still that they weren’t treasured by their original owners.

Image courtesy of Metropolitan Museum of Art.  Amie Siegel (American, b. 1974). Provenance (still), 2013. HD video, color, sound; 40 min., 30 sec.

September 03, 2014 by Nalina Moses
September 03, 2014 /Nalina Moses /Source
FURNITURE, ARCHITECTURE, FILM, Amie Siegel, Chandigarh, India
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OH!  CALCUTTA!
Sandwiched between other designers who showed Bollywood-style getups on models strutting to booming film music, Joy Mitra’s presentation at the Splendid India Closet event was memorable for its restraint.  That’s not a qua…

OH!  CALCUTTA!

Sandwiched between other designers who showed Bollywood-style getups on models strutting to booming film music, Joy Mitra’s presentation at the Splendid India Closet event was memorable for its restraint.  That’s not a quality one typically associates with Indian fashion.

The designer took inspiration from Devdas, a novel set in nineteenth-century Calcutta that has spawned several well-known film adaptations, most recently a  blockbuster starring Aishwarya Rai and Shahrukh Khan.  The models wore billowing ankle-length skirts and pantaloons with short, fitted blouses that buttoned up the back, and sheer draped shawls.  Each piece was in a strong, saturated hue with subdued, coppery undertones, and was mixed with pieces in contrasting colors.  The combinations were unforgettable: tangerine orange with peacock blue, mustard yellow with burgundy, teal with chocolate brown.   The fabrics were embellished with gold seed beads and lines of embroidery in delicate, traditional motifs.  But this ornament didn’t have the bright yellow shine of typical zari.  Insted it reminded me of gold jewelry that has been worn for decades – dull, mottled, with all the polish worn away.

The models carried cloth purses, puckered like dumplings, on colored cords from their wrists, wore little embroidered patches in their hair, and held their heads high, staring somberly into the distance.  They looked like they were on their way to the market or to school; they were not simply swanning about.  The modesty in cut (there were a few exposed bellies, but no ankles or cleavage) and decoration, coupled with the richness in the palette, set a somber, nostalgic mood.  The garments evoked another time and place, one with its own unchanging codes of dress and behavior.  The friend I was with remarked that the clothing was “very old Calcutta."  I’ve never visited that city, but after seeing Mitra’s clothes I have a full fantasy of it.

Image courtesy of JOY Designs.

July 18, 2014 by Nalina Moses
July 18, 2014 /Nalina Moses /Source
India, FASHION, Joy Mitra, JOY Designs, SICFashionTour, JOYDesigns
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DECORATIVE ARTS
I recently spent a day hiding out inside the Pierre Hotel, at the Splendid Indian Closet, a trunk show where twelve celebrated Indian-based designers showed their current collections.  As I watched the presentations I was struck by t…

DECORATIVE ARTS

I recently spent a day hiding out inside the Pierre Hotel, at the Splendid Indian Closet, a trunk show where twelve celebrated Indian-based designers showed their current collections.  As I watched the presentations I was struck by the persistence of tradition.  Virtually all of the clothes shown that day were traditional garment types (sari, lengha, kurta, salwar kameez), executed in traditional palettes (fuschia with red, saffron with burgundy, sea foam with navy) and with traditional embellishments (embroidery, lace, zari, beads).  The one designer who succeeded in taking these conventions and elevating them to dazzling, supernatural effect was Suneet Varma.

This designer’s work has a sense of refinement that’s not always evident in Indian fashion, which can be over-embellished without being purposefully so.  In many of the garments from this recent show, the ornament is so lavish that not much fabric is left bare.  But each ensemble remains monochromatic, built from layers of gauzy chiffons and slithering silks in a single glowing hue (pale peach, bright lime, berry red, sky blue).   And the ornament, while over-the-top, is carefully structured, repetitive, rhyming, pulling the entire garment together.

Varma worked as in intern in Paris, with a stint at Yves Saint Laurent, and there is a very French sense of exoticism (India!) and theatricality to his work.  The models moved down the runway slowly, self-consciously and regally.  They held enormous jewel-trimmed veils over their heads, rolled their hips like Jessica Rabbit, and took dramatic pauses in the middle of the runway.  They were styled with elaborate knights-of-arabia turbans, hooker-high gold heels, and glittering, shoulder-grazing chandelier earrings.  Like John Galliano’s gowns, Varma’s lenghas and saris are costume-like, magically transformative.  They turn the women wearing them into courtesans and movie stars, vamps and queens. 

Photograph courtesy of Suneet Varma.

July 15, 2014 by Nalina Moses
July 15, 2014 /Nalina Moses /Source
FASHION, India, sari saree, ORNAMENT, COLOR, John Galliano
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